Playstation 3 Specs

Playstation 3 Specs

Sony Playstation 3, the newest game platform entry for the seventh generation gaming, is one monster machine. You’ll be surprised, but most high-end desktop PC will have a hard time matching the Sony Playstation 3 specs by specs. Even with Dual Core processors, Desktop PCs it will be lagging behind in speed –considerably.

The Sony Playstation 3 specs include a Cell Processor PowerPC-base Core clocked at 3.2 GHz, a technology that sets itself apart by its awesome ability to handle floating-point kernels. The 3.2 GHZ clocking speed isn’t anything new, by the way, when the Pentium D processor has similar clocking speed, but the difference would be the Cell Processor’s specialized function, whereas a PC’s processor function is geared toward a more wide scope of function. This technology is the brainchild of the collaboration of three industrial giants STI (Sony, Toshiba and IBM).

For the Playstation 3 spec, Sony’s collaboration with video powerhouse NVDIA had released the RSX Reality Synthesizer Graphics Processing Unit. The RSX GPU is an incredible implement in itself, this graphics engine is capable of simulating textures up to the finest resolution, up to 1920×1080 pixels. Compare it to competition, Microsoft Xbox 360 has 1280 x 720 pixels and Nintendo Wii has 853×480 pixels, there’s no doubt the Playstation 3 spec is reeking with power. Game titles like Fight Night: Round 3 and Call of Duty 3 is a proof that Playstation 3 spec is a showcase of awesome graphic capability previously unheard of. And even with full scale anti-aliasing and shader pixels, the frame rate suffers no slowdown. That is because of the Rambus XDR 256 memory and GDDR3 256 memory, both which the RSX GPU can take advantage.

Another interesting feature in the Playstation 3 specs is the implementation of the Blu-ray drive. This media has a storage capacity of 50 GB, 10 times more storage space than conventional DVD. So that means more options for game developers, and a longer game experience for the gamers. The Blu-ray drive allows extensive media options too. It allows viewing on the widest media format. So take advantage of your viewing experience by plugging the system on your HDTV. And it is also interesting to note that most BD players in the market today costs considerable more than Sony Playstation 3.

If you list the Playstation 3 specs on its entirety, the list will run yards long. And if you were to list its capabilities, it too will be running several yards long. Yes, the engine that is housed inside the sleek metallic case is still relatively new, meaning most of its benefits (and defects) are unknown. But to compare the power of the system to other game consoles of its generation, it will be like comparing a racehorse to a carthorse.

Programming 101: CNC

Programming 101: CNC

After World War II, people realized that they have to manufacture goods at a faster rate and at a lower cost. Hence, mass production trending came to be. Those events led to the development of the Numerical Control (NC) machines which in turn led to the Computer Numerical Control (CNC).

HOW TO PROGRAM A CNC MACHINE

CNC programming uses a code similar in structure to BASIC. So, if you know how to construct a simple counting program, chances are, you already know what a G-Code looks like. However, there a few other things you have to consider before you start encoding instructions.

The first thing that you have to do is to assign values for each of the variables. These variables include the programmable motion directions (axes), and the reference point for the axes. The values that you assign to these variables dictate the movement of the machine.

The next thing that you have to do is to take into account the accessories of the machine. Many machines have accessories that are designed to enhance the capabilities of the basic device. However, using these accessories requires you to include them in the coding system. This means that if you want a more efficient machine, you will have to know the machine inside out.

READING CODES

After those steps, you have to create a subprogram that will deal with the math. This step will then allow your machine to compute the necessary variables and effectively operate without stopping to ask the operator what the limitations are.

To show you what these codes look like, here’s an example from Wikipedia:

#100=3 (bolt circle radius)
#101=10 (how many holes)
#102=0 (x position of ctr of bolthole)
#103=0 (y position of ctr of bolthole)
#104=0 (angle of first hole
Tool call,
spindle speed,and offset pickup,etc
G43 in some cases (tool length pickup)
G81(drill cycle)
call sub program
N50
G80
M30

Subprogram
N100
#105=((COS#104)*#100) (x location)
#106=((SIN#104)*#100) (y location)
x#105 y#106 (remember your G81 code is modal)
If #100 GT 360 goto N50
#100=(#100+(360/#101))
Goto 100

In the code above, the machine is a drill. The operator utilized a loop in order to keep the machine from stopping. The subprogram then governs the cycle of the machine. This code is still quite a simple code. Other machines require the inclusion of the maximum RPM in the coding.

An easier way of programming CNC machines would be the use of Computer Aided Manufacturing (CAM). This system takes on the brunt of programming so that it doesn’t seem so tedious and frustrating. It is still similar to BASIC.

Another programming enhancement that was developed was the parametric programs or the logical commands. These programs were designed to shorten lengthy codes in order to make them user friendly. However, these codes do not always use the same language with every machine. The language and sequence often varies depending on the typ of machine you will be working on.

The operator has to know what the machine can do or what it was made to do before attempting to program it. You should be able to visualize the machine doing what you want it to do.

But, you don’t have to be a math wizard or a programming genius. You just have to know what your machine does and what you want it to do.

Beware of a Flood Damaged Used Car In Your Town

Beware of a Flood Damaged Used Car In Your Town

Is a flood car coming to a town near you?
Hurricanes have done major devastation to the southern coastline, and the clean up project will likely take years to return things to some what normal. What I am concerned about is the potentially HUGE number of vehicles that will soon come on the market to be sold as used cars. The problem is not that the vehicle is used, but that it is potentially a casualty of the hurricanes and high water. These used cars are generally known in the business as “flood cars.”
Now I know what you are thinking, “I don’t live in these Southern areas, so I am not at risk of unknowingly purchasing one of these flood cars.” Sorry, but you are dead wrong…actually the farther away you live from the hurricane damage, the greater you are at risk for being scammed into buying one of these cars.
Why are you more at risk? Think about it. The flood damage took place in New Orleans, don’t you think that the residents there know that used cars on the market in that area have a HUGE potential to be flood cars? You bet they know that.
But do you think the used car buyers in Arizona would suspect flood cars were brought into their area? Probably not, and the scam artists behind these flood cars know this. I would suspect theses car will be on the used car market for about a year…maybe more. This issue is huge and will hurt many people who make the mistake and purchase one of these vehicles.
What is the big deal about a car that got water inside it if it seems to run just fine? Great question…even if I made it up myself. The engine itself might be fine, and long term engine damage might not have occurred, but there are many other components of the vehicle that can seem to be working normally now, but can deteriorate in the near future.
Electrical components and wiring are usually affected most. There is a ton of complex wiring under the hood, in the dashboard, and under the carpeting of the vehicle. Water gets inside the vehicle from underneath from holes in the frame and body and around the door openings. If the carpet gets wet, so does the vast network of wiring under the carpet. The carpet can easily be replaced, but the wiring under the vehicle is usually too complex and therefore too expensive to replace, so new carpet is laid on top of them, concealing potential damage.
So what if the wires get wet? Rust my dear friend. Rust is your enemy, and rust you will soon have. These wires will now slowly begin to break down and rust will form on any part of the wire that is not protected. When the electricity traveling inside these wires makes contact with this rust, it will make a ground, and the electricity will stop traveling. Whatever component the electricity was traveling to, a fuel pump for instance, will soon stop working. Finding the trouble spot in the miles of wire is not an easy task. The carpets and seat will probably have to be removed and hours of diagnostic time will probably be accumulated as the mechanic tries to find the trouble spot.
In most cars, the onboard computer system is located in the lower part of the passenger dashboard area, just inches above the carpeting. Some Japanese vehicles have the computer located under the passenger seat, on top of the carpet! If the computer system gets wet, not only will it need to be replaced, but it can damage many other electrical components as well.
The computer can be replaced now, and all might seem well, but the rust will soon make its way to these other electrical components and a domino effect will probably start to happen. One sensor after another will fail, intermittent electrical problems will begin to happen, and your pocketbook will soon start to feel the ill effects of multiple monthly mechanic visits. I consider rust the cancer of automobiles, you have to keep cutting and cutting and cutting to stop its growth.
Transmissions are another big ticket item that can be affected by water and not show symptoms for some time. When moisture enters the transmission, the normally light pink fluid becomes a light white/pinkish frothy mix, like a strawberry milkshake. The entire workings of the transmission are extremely complex and full of wires, sensors, and lots of rubber seals and O-rings. The water will cause the rubber parts to swell and leak, and the sensors and electrical components will soon succumb to rust and water damage as well.
So what can you do to protect yourself from buying a flooded time bomb?
1. Be cautious of every used car on the market.
2. Take your time inspecting and test driving. A good deal today is usually a good deal tomorrow too, so don’t succumb to pushy sales people.
3. Inspect under the driver and passenger seats for obvious signs of rust on the seat tracks and metal seat frame.
4. Look at the headliner (the fabric on the roof inside the car). Once wet, the glue that holds this fabric in place will begin to weaken, and the fabric will begin to fall down completely, or will fall in small sections that will look like bubbles.
5. Inspect the undercarriage and the exhaust system for signs of large scale rust. I would expect a small amount of rust as being normal; ask your mechanic if you have questions.
6. Use your nose. If the inside of the vehicle smells damp and moldy, or feels damp to your skin…run!
7. Remove the wheels and inspect the brakes. This should be done anyway if you are inspecting a used car, but rust damage will really show itself on the brake components.
8. Inspect all under-hood fluids for water contamination. Oil and water will look like a chocolate milkshake, oil and transmission or power steering fluid will look like a strawberry milkshake.
9. Get the dealership or the seller to give you a written statement that to the best of their knowledge that 1. the car has not been in a flood, and 2. the car was not involved in any type of insurance claim that might have resulted in the original owner selling the vehicle to their insurance company as a “total loss.”
10. Get a CarFax report. These reports can provide very valuable information about the car, but I would not rely solely on them. CarFax may not have complete or updated information critical to your decision.
11. Look in the trunk under the caper ting and under the spare tire. Water and rust will tend to puddle here since it is one of the lowest places of the vehicle. If you see standing water, or signs of rust in and around the spare tire area it is probably a flood damaged vehicle and should be avoided.
My website provides one of the best used car checklists I have been able to find. I highly recommend a would-be-buyer to print it out and follow the step-by-step guide. If you aren’t in the market for a used car yourself, be sure to pass this article and checklist information on to your co-workers, friends, and family who are.